Tuesday, November 03, 2009

She has come from space! Maybe there is something in the old legends. . .

The Virgin of Guadelupe here is represented by a Dancer in a handwoven huipil. She appears from outer space, enclosed in a mantle of light, dancing with and offering the first three ears of sacred corn from the harvest. Four open white flowers in the four directions represent the souls of ancestors who are now stars. Being a virgin goddess she is shown dancing in the sliver of the new moon, as it appears in Oaxaca.

As a good nursing student ought, I have taken my anti-insomnia pills and immediately headed for the blogger. I could be doing worse. I just wanted to take you all back to Oaxaca with me for a moment. Rather, we will ascend to the top of the mountain Pikachu in Spanish or Guie Betz its rightful name in Teotitlan, on a crisp morning under starlight and moonlight before the sun arose. Guie Betz means brother rock and there are some stories about a mysterious white light glowing at its peak and a voice speaking to the people. Don't really know if that's true, but I definitely don't discount its improbable possibility. There are also legends of travelers hiking through its beautiful land seeing strange beasts and strange men that are not from earth. And there are some stories of traveller's getting lost, entering another dimension through a porthole, never to be seen again until they reappeared weeks later unaware that they had been gone at all.

Our tale begins with a trip to the Presa on a lovely summer twilit evening. I went to Las Granadas (bed and breakfast run by Josefina and Magdalena where the ladies are all happy, the men are all weaving, and the expats sit on the open rooftops balconies reveling in drink and tacos, and making their lonely way into varying states of disconnect from the hard unwanted lives they have previously lead- baggage is properly stored, all is washed clean in the basin in front of the bathroom door, and the cares of your previous life slowly fade away as you lounge with new but very good friends in a hammock, eating fresh pomegranate that ripens on the tree in the courtyard).

This group of folks loves to go to the Presa- the big dam on the northern part of the village. We had traversed the sides of the mountain, walking through lands were goats nibbled on grasses amid slippery shards of rock, picked several star flowers- delicate stems, pure white leaves with a sweet musky smell.
A group of us- a young teotilano couple, an old codgery artist from Nebraska who was house sitting up in the hills for the summer, a Scottish photographer of underwater tropical fish, myself, and my best traveling friend, Luzi, a German girl who has been living in Australia for 6 years studying naturopathy- made loose plans to scale the beautiful Brother Rock the next day to see the sunrise over the valley. The appointed time was 5am to meet at Las Granadas, see who would be ready, have a little tea, and head up up up in the predawn darkness. Only Luzi prevailed. The others were sleeping and we left them to their dreams. Together with some trepidation, we walked to the edge of the village and up past houses to the rocky road that leads to the trailhead. Lit somewhat by the village lights below we began a trip under the foliage of cacti and trees, and large boulders. To our surprise and consternation we found no porthole nor mythical creatures from a different planet. We did see an owl that scared the piss right out of me.
We finally got to the top and realized that we would have to jump the fence that had been erected to keep unwanted hooligans such as ourselves from our prize. Easily done.

On the top of the cliff face we found an altar constructed with two green crosses above it and a candle which we lit.

It was beautiful moment before the sun peeked over the mountaintops.

We proceeded to watch the entire village and the Presa light up with the rising sun. and I did some yoga. It was not easy, but I finally got balanced well enough to extend into Queen dancer pose. Not my best extension, but considering the terrain I felt pretty successful, not to mention bound with body, mind, and breath. Awaken spine and let the kundalini flow within you and through you out into the valley below!

Thursday, July 09, 2009


Finally a moment to post about my travels! So far there have been too many fascinating shenanigans to sit down and write so i will backpost . . .
I finally arrived in Teotitlan del Valle after a plane ride to cancun a one night stay in a little crappy hotel, a plane ride to oaxaca a cab ride into town and a bus ride into the pueblo. I found my way to the Chavez Santiago house where no one was home. So I sat and ate a PB sandwich until Janet arrived. I put my stuff down and we went off to her uncle's house to take part in the serious fiesta that was going on. "La Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Jesucristo" basically translates to The Fiesta of the Precious Blood of Jesus Christ- sounds like pretty heavy stuff, but its really just a 2 week long party with dancing, music food, and a fair. By a fair, I mean like the NC state fair complete with junk food, games, stuffed animal prizes and rides. The rides are pretty scary- probably 30 years old, teetering on wooden blocks as they sling 20 or more people around in circles. Of course, I fearlessly enter "Musical" with a 9 year old mexican girl who screams and clutches at my arm. Maybe I should have been scared. . . .
There was also amazing Dancing! La Danza de la Pluma- Dance of the Feathers. Its a traditional dance which is a sort of reinactment of the Betrayal of Moctezuma. There are about 8 dancers (young men of the village) and two young girls. One dancer portrays Moctezuma, and the others are the soldiers fighting for him. The two girls represent La Malinche- the wife of Moctezuma, and Dona Marina- the lover of Cortez who betrayed Moctezuma. The dancers promise three years. They dance in the festival, and at other festivals (including Guelaguetza) for three years voluntarily. Its a huge honor, and for the past three years, Uriel, one of Janet's cousins is a Danzante. They are currently performing in New Mexico!!